Step 1 - Screw Center Mark Target into the light bulb socket inside the recessed light fixture, Let the telescoping magnet extend down pass the ceiling level ~~ Step 2 - Once the Center Mark Target is installed in the recessed light fixture, cover the recessed light fixture with the drywall. Position your drywall in the exact location and fasten it with enough drywall screws to make it secure ~~ C...
Cut both sides of drywall simultaneously using magnets to guide bottom cut. Works with 1 2'' or 5 8'' board. Cut curves, corners, shapes, and straight lines with ease. Reduces time it takes to score and cut drywall....
A hole in drywall may appear to many people to be difficult to repair, but in reality it is a simple fix that the majority of homeowners can repair themselves. The repair technique outlined in this article takes a few hours, but if done correctly will leave you with a flat, seamless wall. There are seven steps that you should follow in order to achieve a great repair on your drywall.
1. Mark off the area to be patched. Use a square to mark off an area slightly larger than the hole that you are repairing.
2. Using a drywall knife, cut around the four sides that you have already marked off, leaving you with a square hole in the wall.
3. Prepare a piece of wood to reinforce the patch. To do this, cut a thin strip of 1x2 or 1x4 slightly larger than the height of the hole. Slip the wood into the hole and position it so that the wood extends equally above and below the hole. Attach the wood using drywall screws attached through the surrounding drywall.
4. Create a drywall patch for the hole. Using a Tape Measure, Utility Knife and a square cut a piece of drywall to fit inside of the hole.
5. Secure the patch using drywall screws attached through the reinforcement board that you have already installed. Screw the patch down till it is even with the surrounding wall.
6. Spread a thin coat of joint compound on the patch using a drywall knife. If necessary, apply drywall tape around the perimeter and spread on another thin coat of joint compound. Allow to dry and then sand using fine grit sandpaper.
7. After the joint compound is completely dry, apply another coat of joint compound using the drywall knife, blending in the repaired area with the surrounding wall. Allow to dry completely and sand again with fine grit sandpaper. Once you have completed the steps, you should have a seamless patch.
All that is left to do now is paint the repaired area and your job is complete. To do this you need to prime the newly repaired area first. You can use a latex based primer to do this such as Kilz or Zinsser. Once you prime the area and let it dry, you are now ready to apply the topcoat of paint. If you have touch up paint it may not match perfectly because even interior paint will fade over a period of time. If the paint does not match, you have two options. The first option is to repaint the entire room which is another project altogether or you can paint from corner to corner of the repaired wall. I would advise you to try and paint from corner to corner of the repaired wall first and if it does not match with the rest of the room you can always paint the entire room.
So the next time you have some damage to your sheetrock, if you follow these steps you should have no problem repairing it to its original state. Good luck.
About the Author
The author has over thirty years experience in the home improvement industry. You can learn more at click here
Can I use drywall screws to attach corner pieces?
I have the screws. I can get the nails if needed, but wanted to avoid the trip if I didn't need to. Thanks!
By corner pieces, are you referring to metal corner beads. If so the answer to your question is yes.
Metal corner bead can be attached with a tool called a clinch on or drywall screws.
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Sinus Rinse White Dry Dock Stand offers the ideal drying and storage solution for your Sinus Rinse squeeze bottle system or NeilMed Neti Pot. You can use the drying device to reduce the chance of contamination. The convenient holder can store a month's supply of premixed Sinus Rinse Nasal Wash packets....
Sinus Rinse NasaDock is a hygenic way to air dry & neatly store the Sinus Rinse bottle, Cap and tube, keeping the System ready for the next use. It mounts easily on glass and tile without any permanent damage as well as on drywall and wooden walls. Includea a nasadock stand for sinus rinse bottle, cap and tube, 6 x 3/4inch screws, 2 drywall anchors, 2 double-sided tape and 2 suction cups....
1000 Pack, 1-5/8", #6 Drywall To Wood Screw, Gray Phosphate Coating, For High Productivity, 50 Screws Per Strip, Easy To Carry Tub With Handle, Fits Senco Duraspin Cordless Screw Driver 800001N, True Value #572153....
1000 Pack, 1-1/4", #6 Drywall To Wood Screw, Gray Phosphate Coating, For High Productivity, 50 Screws Per Strip, Easy To Carry Tub With Handle, Fits Senco Duraspin Cordless Screw Driver #800001N, True Value #572-153....
The Makita BFS450Z is an 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Drywall Screwdriver, Tool Only (battery and charger are NOT included). The BFS450 has a 4-pole motor that handles drywall and framing applications at 4,000 RPM. The compact, lightweight design of the Makita PFS450Z makes all-day projects easier on the user. The extra fine depth adjustment ring offers 60 detent positions. LXT Lithium-Ion bat...
For the DYI, here are a few steps for proper tile installation. Installing ceramic tile is not hard by any means, just follow these step and have some patience and everything will fall into place.
1. Surface Preparation
Ceramic tile may be installed over most structurally-sound substrates. Make sure all surfaces to be tiled are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease. Any damaged, loose or uneven areas must be repaired, patched, and leveled. Remove all moldings, trims, appliances, etc. which may interfere with the installation. Door jambs may be undercut for tiles to slip under.
2. Layout
When tiling walls, tubs, or shower areas, begin by finding the center point of the wall. Use a level to draw a plumb line in the center of the wall. Align a row of loose tiles across the bottom of the wall from the center line, leaving uniform joints between tiles. If your tiles have integral spacer lugs, the tiles can be abutted to automatically leave consistent 1/16" joints. If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls then adjust plumb center line a half tile closer to the side wall.
Now determine the lowest point of the floor (or tub) by horizontally using a level. Stack two tiles here, and at the top draw a horizontal line on the wall. With a level, continue the line around all side walls to be tiles. This line is a guideline for the first row of tiles to be set above. Begin installing tiles to the center of the wall above the horizontal guideline. Install one half of the back wall at a time. Set the lower two rows last. Cut and fit bottom tiles against the floor (or tub) if not level. Leave a 1/8" gap above the tub for caulking to seal around tub.
Repeat the above process for side walls. Mark outside tile lines on walls that will not be completely tiled in order to spread adhesive. Leave out tiles where you plan to install ceramic accessories (soap dish, towel bar, etc.) Use bullnose trim pieces to finish edges on walls where necessary.
Floor Layout:
When tiling floors, begin by marking the center points of all four walls. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls. The lines will intersect in the center of the room. Make sure that the lines make perfect squares and adjust if necessary.
Lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints between the tiles (use tile spacers). If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls, then adjust the center line by snapping a new Chalk Line a half tile closer to the wall.
Repeat this process along the other center line, adjusting as necessary. Now divide the room into smaller grids by snapping additional chalk lines parallel to the center lines. To fit the exact dimensions of these grids, lay out an area of tile approximately 2' x 3' starting in the center of the room along the center lines. Use tile spacers or leave equal joints between the tiles. Measure this grid and use the dimensions for each
smaller grid throughout the room.
Begin installing tiles in the center of the room. Install one quarter of the room, one quarter at a time. Finish each grid before moving on to the next one. Cut and fit the perimeter tiles in each grid last. Leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and walls. Do not walk on fresh tiles for about 24 hours until they set.
Countertop Layout:
When tiling counters, lay out tiles from front to back. Begin with counter trim then set full tiles on the first row working backward, so all cuts are made on the back row against the wall. Special trim pieces are available for use around recessed sinks, appliances, etc. if necessary. Snap parallel chalk lines on the substrate as needed to keep rows straight.
For backsplashes, match up joints with the countertop tile.
Begin with full tiles at the counter, working up so that all cuts are made on the top row under cabinets. Use bullnose trim pieces on flat walls or sides. Tile countertops should have a tile backsplash at least four inches high for protection.
3. Setting Tile:
Variation of shade and texture is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles. For a blended effect, mix tiles from several cartons as you set.
Tile ceilings before walls, Tile walls before floors.
Tile countertops before backsplashes. Once you have chosen the proper adhesive or mortar, read all instructions and precautions on the package before using. Mix thinset or mortar according to the directions on the package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes.
Pre-mixed wall tile adhesives can be applied directly from the can without mixing. Determine the appropriate type of trowel (V or square-notch) and the right size (depth of notches) for the type of tile you are setting. Refer to the setting material package for recommendations.
Applying Adhesives:
Spread a 1/4" thick coat of adhesive onto the surface of one grid area using the flat side of the trowel. Do not cover the guidelines. When completed, immediately use the notch side of the trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Remove any excess adhesive, leaving the setting bed uniform and ridged. Spread no more area than can be set in 15 minutes.
Setting Tile:
After determining the appropriate adhesive and mortar, begin setting the tile. Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward. Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion. Do not slide tiles into place. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set, or leave equal joints between tiles. Continue until all tiles within the grid are set. When grid is completely installed, tap the tiles in with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and a level plane. Remove any excess adhesive from joints with a Putty Knife and from the face of tiles with a damp sponge before moving on to the next grid.
Each grid must be installed correctly and completely within the layout grid lines for a successful overall installation.
Cutting Tile:
Measure tiles to be cut carefully and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Edges that are too sharp may be smoothed with a carborundum stone. Make straight or diagonal cuts using a Tile Cutter. Make small curved cuts with nippers. Chip away small pieces for best results. Make full length curved cuts with a rod saw.
Soap dishes, towel bars, paper holders, etc. should be set in the spaces left out for them.
Apply a room temperature, silicone sealant to the back of each accessory. Position over hole and press firmly. Wipe off any excess silicone that may have leaked out from the sides. Use masking tap to hold in place and prevent slippage during cure time. After 24 hours, remove tape and grout perimeter edges.
4. Grouting Joints:
Before grouting joints, the tile should be well-set to prevent breaking the bond. Refer to the adhesive package for specific time. Generally, you should wait about 24 hours before grouting. Remove all the spacers used for setting. For the correct type of grout for your tile installations, refer to the following chart:
Wall/Counter Tile:
Joint Width Grout Type
Less than 1/8"
More than 1/8" Non-sanded
Fine-grain sanded
Floor Tile:
Joint Width Grout Type
Less than 1/8"
1/8" to 3/16"
More than 1/8" Non-sanded
Fine-grain sanded
Coarse-grain sanded
Determine the grout color of your choice. For best results, choose on the color-coordinates with the tile.
Carefully read all instructions and precautions on the package. Mix grout according to instructions. Make only enough to use within about 30 minutes. Wear protective gloves to protect your skin. Spread the mixed grout on the tiled surface, forcing grout down into joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee. Tilt the float at a 45 degree angle to aid the compacting action. Remove excess grout from the surface immediately with edge of float. Tilt float at a 90 degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles. Continue the process of compacting, then scraping off excess, until you have grouted for approximately 30 minutes or when the mixture begins to stiffen. Discard stiffened grout mixture and begin cleanup procedure.
Cleanup:
Wait 15 to 20 minutes for grout to set slightly, the use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. Rinse sponge frequently and change water as needed. Let the area dry until grout becomes hard and a haze forms on the tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth. If haze is stubborn, you may want to rinse again with a sponge and clean water. Wait 72 hours before heavy use. Do not apply sealers or polishes for three weeks until fully-cured, and only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
About the Author
Bruce Mendes has been in the retail trade business for 15 years specializing in flooring and cabinetry. He has a high end showroom in Central Ohio and a web presence at . If you have any questions or comments you can email him at
Removing ceiling texture?
Just bought a 40 year old house that has swirls on the ceiling. The swirls starts in the middle with a small swirled circle with larger and larger swirled circles around the middle point. The design is dated and I want to remove it.
Should I simply soak and scrape like you would a popcorn ceiling? or do I need to take a different approach?
And what is likely the product used to make the circles? (it looks like a trowel was used and it probably took a lot of craftsmanship to make them so uniform)
I want to attempt to soak and scrape, does anyone think this is bad idea and do I need to check anything else before I start?
Thanks for you input!
Hello, I operate Straight Nails Construction, and would like to help with your question. Whether you have popcorn ceiling, stipple ceiling, or your "artwork", most should be prepped by misting with a water bottle and allowing that water to be absorbed prior to scraping the ceiling. There is an inexpensive tool that can be purchased at the home improvement stores that will scrape the ceiling and allow the droppings to fall into a bag, or I have even hooked it up to my shop vac. Note that this will make a huge mess, so the more furniture you can move/cover, the better off you will be. Even after scraping, you will probably have to sand the ceiling to get rid of rough spots and have to use spackle to patch any holes/mistakes and sand to a paintable surface. You will probably want to use a quality primer on those ceilings before you paint. Sherwin Williams makes a good ceiling paint that isn't too expensive. I hope this helps.
TEXTURE POLISHING TROWEL - Stainless steel trowel with soft grip handle ~ Used to knock down texture stipple marks ~ Achieves McCloskey's sculptured stone look ~ For burnishing venetian plaster finishes...
Sold as each. 11" x 4-1/2". 1/4" x 3/16" V notch. Aluminum alloy mounting riveted to a hard tempered steel blade. Soft grip handle for extra comfort and grip. . Manufacturer number: 15676. Country of origin: China. Distributed by Marshalltown Trowel Co....
The Magic Trowels patented blade is designed to smooth out and spread all compounds without leaving those annoying trowel lines. This product will help reduce the sanding you would normally have with metal blades. A real time and labor saving product....
Proper operation and care of your airsoft guns can go a long way in maintaining the appearance and functionality of your weapons. The items needed are very inexpensive and readily available: damp cloth, silicon, cleaning rod, and barrels squabs.
Using a good quality BB in your airsoft gun will do more to insure its proper function than any other aspect of operation and maintenance. You need to insure that you use a high quality double polish BB. Using an inferior BB will introduce your gun to seams, burs, pits, and non spherical shapes, any one of these defects can jam your airsoft gun causing a cascade of mechanical failures.
Apply lubricant to your airsoft gun frequently. Remember to use one hundred percent silicon oil, as any other type of oil will have side effects on seals and other parts slowly decreasing your guns performance and reliability. For those models that utilize a hop-up, the application of silicon oil will help keep this critical piece of rubber from drying out and becoming useless. Apply silicon oil into the feed tube on electric models and for gas airsoft guns you will have to perform a partial disassembly in order to lubricate them properly.
The inner barrel of your airsoft gun will need to be cleaned religiously. Any dirt or debris within these tight quarters will at the very least decrease your range and accuracy of your airsoft gun. In the worst case scenario debris may be significant enough to cause a BB to jam. If a jam occurs, especially in an electric model, the subsequent BBs may cause severe damage.
The magazines used in your airsoft gun may periodically need a little silicon oil to provide proper feeding. For those using a large electric box magazine, you may find coating the inside of your box magazine with a very light layer of silicon will help with feeding and minimize jams. Remove BBs from your magazines before you store them, as BBs left in the magazine will keep the spring compressed and decrease its effectiveness overtime.
The externals of airsoft guns tend to require only a damp cloth to remove the dust and grime from playing. However, outer barrels, screw heads, fasteners, etc will need some form of oil from time to time in order to ward off surface rust and insure proper function.
Depending on how much you utilize your electric airsoft guns, it may be beneficial to have the mechanical box disassembled and serviced. This service usually includes replacing any items that show wear, re-shimming the gears for proper fits, and the application of a lubricant to gears themselves. Most players will use an airsoft shop for this service or have someone in their group that has experience in this type of service.
A few simple steps can be taken to insure you get the most out of your day's game and increase the longevity of your equipment. Most steps can be completed with just a few low cost readily available items.
About the Author
Looking for more information about airsoft guns
? Don recommends Trinity Airsoft
. http://www.trinityairsoft.com
i just bought an avenger paintball gun an when i screw in the co2 it sprays out of the barrel?
i replaced all the seals an now dont know what to do
i tried cocking it first
Did you cock it before engaging the CO2?
Okay, I just checked the Brass Eagle site. Ironically, this marker's internals are based on the F1 originally made by Feral Paintball. The F1 was my first semi. Brass Eagle bought all of the tooling from Feral when they went under and then added a bunch of stuff that wrecked the original marker (imho).
Because this marker uses a top and bottom block (Gas is ducted up to the back of the top block by a striker pin. It looks like you might have the velocity adjustment too far in and it's holding the pin from sealing. Or the o-ring could be cut on the striker bolt.
Below is an exploded diagram of the marker. You should be able to identify which part is giving you the problem.
The main difference between this and the F1 Illustrator is the F1 fed the gas from the back, this one feeds from the front.
Old Antique Historical Victorian Prints Maps and Historic Fine Art----------. 1855 Hm Screw Tender Gun-Boat Sailor'S Home Grey'S Dunn Page From An Issue 1855. The Illustrated London News . . These Wood Engravings From Sketches, Or Early Photographs Would Make An Ideal Gift For Christmas Or Birthday. The Actual Date Is Printed On Each Page.This Engraving Is Over 100 Years ...
1866 Iron-Clad Fleet Screw Corvette Pallas Gun-Ship Old Print Part Page . Wood Engravings From One Of The Following . The Graphic, Or The Illustrated London News, Size Is Aprox 15.5 X 11 Inches Full Page Or Prorata For Part Pages. All Are Original And Not Modern Copies. The...
1866 Iron-Clad Fleet Screw-Corvette Pallas Gun-Ship Old Print. Page Of Wood Engravings From One Of The Following . The Graphic, Or The Illustrated London News, Size Is Aprox 15.5 X 11 Inches Full Page Or Prorata For Part Pages. All Are Original And Not Modern Copies. The Illus...
Features new Bosch litheon battery technology. Up to 5 times longer cycle life than competitive Lithium-Ion batteries. For use with all Bosch 10.8V and 12 volt litheon tools. Use only with litheon chargers - Bosch BC430 and BC430A...
3300 RPM high torque motor. Patented clutch design for long lasting durability. Reverse switch to back out driven screws. Trigger lock for continuous work. Depth of drive adjustment regulates the precise amount of countersink. Ideal for drywall, floor she...
The Paslode F-350S PowerMaster Plus 30-Degree Framing Nailer is a reliable workhorse that no jobsite should be without. Offering an unmatched combination of power, comfort, and durability, this heavy-duty pneumatic nailer is the perfect tool for framers, general contractors, custom homebuilders, and remodelers. Delivering more than 10% more power-per-pound than the competition, the PowerMaster Plu...
Our Troy drywall lift is made from an all welded steel construction, tool-free assembly and teardown, single stage winch with brake, and can be used by one person. It has a 11-foot maximum reach for horizontal ceilings and a 15-foot maximum reach for walls (determined by the 11-foot max lift and half the length of drywall). It can hold a 4-by-16-foot single sheet capacity, with a 150 lbs load rati...
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